I’ve got a friend; let’s call him Jerry, for anonymity’s sake. Jerry has been fortunate enough to travel to Brazil for the World Cup, and has agreed to send back some stories of his travels as he hops around the country. This is Part 6 of Passport Brazil.
Our flight to Natal was pretty surreal. Partly because was we were totally exhausted taking a flight at 3am, but mostly because everywhere we turned American fans had come out of the woodwork. Our experience so far had been that most US fans, our party included, had generally decided not to flaunt that we were Americans every second of the day. Most fans we saw from other countries, on the other hand, had jerseys and gear on each day, often starting chants at random times. I’d be lying if I said we hadn’t gotten in a few U-S-A chants, but by and large the American fans had taken a step back. Now, however, the jerseys, flags and scarves had begun to peek out. Americans at the airport were more obvious to spot and although it seemed everyone was too tired to talk, many knowing nods were exchanged by the faithful headed to Natal.
We arrived in Natal way before the game and had forgotten to book a room that night. Whoops. It turned out the hotel was fully booked but the staff hooked us up with a discounted rate at a hotel down the street and helped us with some translation skills to facilitate the transaction. I had been given the job as go-to interpreter but the lack of sleep had taken a toll on my already shaky Portuguese so this was greatly appreciated. We had gotten a little sleep on the plane but at this point we were all totally exhausted. I was so excited about the next day that it took some time to actually fall asleep, but I’m not sure my body moved a muscle once I was out.
In the morning I woke up with the type of energy and excitement normally saved for Christmas morning. We grabbed a quick breakfast, a few showers and started to don our gear for the game. We had mentioned to each other what we were going to be wearing, but it was awesome to see everyone’s outfits finally come together. I had decided to sport a Wondolowski jersey with the good luck extra W, and American Outlaws and Men in Blazers patches stitched on. Coupled with a bandana, some USA sunglasses, star covered pants, red white and blue Adidas and a flag for a cape I thought I had done a pretty good job of getting decked out. Later, however, I found out this was extremely middle of the road, top 30% at best, and I loved it.
Kramer on the other hand was killing it in a homemade Captain America costume fashioned from a Michael Bradley jersey; his favorite player on the team. Elaine and George were decked out as well and we giddily left our rooms to begin our adventure. In the lobby we turned a few heads but once the first member of the staff worked up the nerve to ask for a photo we ended up taking pictures with the entire staff. This would be the theme of the day. We must have been asked to pose with over 100 different groups of people throughout the day with Captain America becoming something of a local celebrity.
Peoples of all cultures and backgrounds recognized the costume and everyone had to have a picture for their kids, with their kids, or for their inner kid. It was truly awesome. What’s more, we got nothing but love and support throughout the entire day. As we walked to the Natal Fan Fest to watch the Portugal/Germany game people chanted U-S-A, gave us thumbs up, asked for pictures and honked their horns and waved. The only negative reaction we’d get all day was from three motorcyclists who each gave us thumbs down. What the hell bikers? What gives?
As a group, we were easily the best dressed at the Fan Fest. We met up with a large group of Americans all decked out and I have to say it was such a good feeling to finally see everyone reppin’ the red, white and blue. We could finally fit into the true spirit of the cup and it felt wonderful to have that feeling wash over us. We were delighted at how the first game ended and started a few American Outlaw chants to rally the troops and took some fun photos. That’s when things really started to get out of hand with these pictures. It seemed like everyone from every country wanted pictures with us and all the Americans. Traveling abroad in the past this is something I’d never experienced. It was so much fun to chant for other teams and then have them chant for your own. It was a sort of mutual respect of fans that was truly amazing and one of the lasting impressions I’ll take away from the World Cup.
After we pulled ourselves away from the paparazzi we worked hard to find a cab and make it to the American Outlaws pre-party. Some streets had been blocked off around the stadium so were left a short distance away. As we walked around we saw streams of American jerseys and flags everywhere, and after a little poking and prodding we found our way to the no-reservation required AO party and it was intense. The restaurant that played “host” to the party was large but the overflow into the streets around the restaurant had almost completely blocked off traffic. AO folks kept chants going the whole time we were there and people from all over the US were decked out, partying and asking ‘so where you from?’ In preparation for the game.
We actually ran into a lot of sweet costumes but my favorite was a Darth Vader Uncle Sam costume which I didn’t fully understand but fully appreciated. We also saw a handful of other Captain America fans (none better than Kramer, though) but sadly even less Wondo jerseys. What the heck? Nine goals in his last 11 USMNT caps people!
The party here was incredible but mostly it was the energy being produced by the fans. Although an experience like this would normally be exciting I think the repressed nature of the collective US fandom prior to the trip had pent up an excitement in these travelers. For many of us the game was coming almost half way in our trips in which we’d traveled thousands of miles to support our boys. The moment was finally here and everyone was sure to enjoy it.
Once the clock struck 5 o’clock the AO folks lead one last cheer and then directed us to start the march to the Arena das Dunas. What a powerful experience. We must have only walked a mile or less but it was an incredible experience of photos, chants, high fives, and ever building excitement as we approached the stadium. The US fans covered the full width of the street for more than the block of distance we could see behind us. Continual chants, started by any one person, got picked up by all and resonated through the area. We had to stop and look at the mass of red, white and blue in awe.
As we approached the stadium we got cut off by a group of police who barricaded our entry. It’s almost like they were blocking off the street for…a team bus! We didn’t have to wait long before the USA team bus was escorted into the stadium right before us. This was real! This was going to happen!
Once in the stadium we found it was nearly impossible to move as Captain America’s celebrity status shot into the stratosphere. I understand how this could get annoying for celebrities. It took some time to move around the outdoor concourse beyond security to snag a beer, but as we’d come to find out, miracles happen.
About 45 minutes before game time we had our tickets scanned and entered the arena to find our seats. While on the way we ran into some more sweet costumes include a bunch of basketball jerseys of US presidents, and randomly our now old Chicharito-discussion friends we met in the States. They had some awesome early tickets that would give them just one row of seats between them and the field. So jealous. Our seats weren’t too shabby however as we were seated at one of the top rows of the lower level directly in the center of the field. Our seats included a mixture of Brazilians and Americans but we spotted another guy rocking a Wondo jersey with the extra W! I had a good feeling about this.
What happened next is World Cup history, Dempsey’s 29 second goal, and the only thing I can add is that I feel sorry for the fans that hadn’t reached their seats. The AO chants had been loud to start the game but after the first goal that repressed energy that had been growing all day erupted out of the stadium. People screamed, jumped and cried as the whole arena experienced soccer heaven.
While the US play didn’t instill much confidence for the rest of the game, the chants from the crowd persisted throughout the 90 minutes. The feeling behind those chants though seemed to change dramatically. The initial hope was that we would just pile on the goals like the Dutch, but a couple injuries later and it’s safe to say most fans just wanted the US to hold on for the win.
This however would prove to be easier said than done as Ghana scored a late-game goal almost certainly sealing the deal for a tie. Looking back, you really need to give it to the Ghana fans. Their supporters sections were always dancing and playing their drums and even though they appeared to have a much smaller percentage of filled seats in the stadium, they were energetic throughout the match. When they scored though? They were as ecstatic as we were shaken, dancing and singing loudly as ever.
We didn’t have much time left, but an 86 minute corner gave the Americans a collective sense of hope. This had to be one of our last shots, they have to put this in. And they did! Of course they did, by this time we had come too far, gone through too much for this story to end any other way. We beat Ghana, we gave ourselves the chance to succeed, and granted the wish of all the US fans both in arena and around the world.
What happened after that goal is difficult to describe. The feel at the time was intense and videos of the goal will prove that. But being in the stadium after that win? Incredible. A light rain began to pour after the win (or was it before? Who was noticing the rain at a time like this?) Fans stayed for some time after the game taking pictures, talking with new friends and just sitting in the seats. Was this real life? Did that just happen?
The walk out of the stadium felt like we were walking on clouds and I’m not sure how long it actually took us to catch a cab and finally get home. This particular cabbie also got a little lost and took us all over town so that didn’t help. Once back at the hotel we grabbed a bite and sat and spoke with several travelers from Sweden about US soccer, the importance of the 94′ World Cup, and international travel in general. The conversation was amazing and I felt like a global citizen as I had so many times on this trip.
However, tonight wasn’t for the Swedes, it was for the Americans. We grabbed a cab back to the party district and joined in a street party with Americans and Brazilians alike, who seemed to take no issue with the influx of joyous yanks. We stayed for quite some time making new friends and reliving the moments of the day before making our way back home. And in perhaps the most fitting World Cup experience possible, the night ended with a man from Japan swapping me my USA headband for his of the rising sun. Tonight, America was cool again. Besides to those three motorcyclists (seriously, what was with those guys?) We experienced nothing but love and joy from our fellow travelers and the people of Natal, Brazil. Thank you, and thanks to the USMNT for an incredible experience for all in attendance and watching at home. It’s safe to say now that most of the nation ‘Believes.’
Don’t forget to read pt. 1, pt. 2, pt. 3, pt. 4 and pt 5 in our ongoing series Passport Brazil.
Pics are authors own work, all rights reserved.
